10 tips for visiting Kielder Forest in Northumberland
It is fair to say that a visit to Kielder Forest can be hit and miss. It is indisputably beautiful and an amazing place to be in touch with nature and get away from it all. However, it can also be wet and at certain times of year the midges are unbearable. We set up camp at the beautiful Kielder Village Campsite and embarked on an epic battle with mud, rain and midges. Here are our top tips for getting the most out of your visit to Kielder Forest.
1. Be prepared for the Kielder Forest midges
We thought we were prepared for the Kielder midges. We had both cream and spray repellant with us and we knew we’d need to keep the tent doors closed to avoid letting them in at night. But this really wasn’t enough. Our first mistake was that the insect repellant was packed away.
When we arrived in Kielder Forest, my husband put up the tent whilst wearing shorts with no protection against the midges until he found the spray. In the time it took him to put the tent up, his legs were literally covered in bites. Once we’d found the insect repellant, it did the job and we didn’t get bitten whilst wearing it. That said, the Kielder midges were still swarming around, particularly in the evenings. We ended up buying face nets to wear if we were outside in the evening.
2. Visit Kielder Castle first
Here’s the first thing you need to know about Kielder Castle: it’s not a castle. It is in fact the former hunting lodge of the Duke of Northumberland. What it does have is a café and a little tourist information centre about Kielder Forest. Here, you can find out everything that’s going on in the area. It is the starting point for the Gruffalo Trail and various mountain bike tracks. There is also a park just around the corner. The café is lovely too.
3. Take a bike with you to Kielder Forest
Or if you can’t take one, hire one from The Bike Place. Kielder Forest is just the perfect place for family mountain bike adventures. The tracks are graded like a ski resort, so whatever your level you’ll find the right ride for you. Some of the paths are so easy that Libby (age 5) managed it on her mountain bike and my husband pulled Lia on a trailer.
4. Book in advance for the Kielder Observatory
The Kielder Observatory is incredibly popular due to Kielder Forest being so remote. The lack of light pollution results in some of the darkest skies in the UK, perfect for stargazing. By the time I looked at their website, all the after-dark sessions had already sold out for the week we were there. There were a few early evening children’s sessions still available, but we weren’t sure what we’d be doing each day so we didn’t book it. And of course, by the time we tried again, these had sold out as well. It is supposed to be an incredible experience so don’t make the same mistake as us!
5. Plan for bad weather in Kielder Forest
Much like our plans for the Kielder midges, we thought we had it sussed if the weather was bad. We had a good tent, wellies and waterproof coats. That would be fine, wouldn’t it? Erm, no. The first disaster was that the tent awning basically flooded. It remained damp and muddy for the rest of the week. The next issue was that the waterproofing on part of our tent gave up one night. Luckily, it’s a canvas tent so it was easy to re-waterproof. However, we should have done that before we left. We also should have taken extra pairs of wellies. The girls and I had holes in ours by the end of the week.
The next issue was that we hadn’t done our research properly for wet weather activities in Kielder Forest. We didn’t really have days out planned for bad weather. We ended up researching it when we were there and heading to the Roman Army Museum when it was terrible weather. Later in the week we went to Vindolanda, which is both inside and outside. Both were brilliant, educational days out that I would highly recommend whatever the weather!
6. Be prepared to be incommunicado in Kielder Forest
There is absolutely no phone signal in Kielder Forest. This means no sat nav if you’re using the one on your phone. The WiFi at Kielder Campsite was intermittent. When it wasn’t working, we were able to get WiFi in either the Angler’s Arms pub or the Kielder Castle Café. But in general, I spent most of the week resigned to the fact that I wouldn’t manage to blog or post to social media.
7. Look out for wildlife (and gruffalo) in Kielder Forest
Kielder Forest is a great place to see a variety of wildlife. Approximately half of the red squirrels in England live in Kielder. There are also ospreys, deer, salmon, frogs, water voles, otters – the list goes on. Head to Kielder Castle for directions to the bird hide. In the castle café you can watch the ospreys on their nest via a live camera. The castle is also the best place to find out what wildlife walks and events are happening. While you’re there, you can download the Gruffalo trail app. The app brings the characters to life on your phone as you follow the trail.
8. Visit Scotland from Kielder
In Kielder, you are just a few minutes from the Scottish border. We headed over into Scotland to visit Traquair House. This is an hour and a half drive from Kielder Forest, but it was a lovely day out. It is Scotland’s oldest inhabited house. The grounds are dog friendly, there is a maze and playground to keep the children entertained and they brew their own beer. Pretty much the perfect day out for us all.
9. Book Kielder Forest restaurants in peak season
If you walk along the path through Kielder Campsite, you’ll come to the Angler’s Arms pub. We were very impressed with this place. They allow dogs in the bar area, have a good children’s menu and serve excellent food at reasonable prices. However, it is understandably popular. So if you intend to eat there, do book in advance. On one occasion we didn’t book and they were full. We ended up having a very average, overpriced meal at the Boat Inn on Kielder waterside. This is a smart looking place with a great menu and friendly staff but the food just isn’t up to standard.
10. Visit Kielder Water
Kielder Water is an enormous man-made lake in the middle of Kielder Forest. Despite not having the weather to get into the lake on a boat, it was well worth a visit to the lake. We cycled there from Kielder campsite. The tracks were a little difficult for Libby so it took quite a long time, but the views were spectacular and the lake itself is beautiful.
Hi Nat, Kielder Forest looks really beautiful, I love your photos. Stepping away from technology every once in a while is good for the soul, I bet you had a fab time. Being able to cycle with the whole family must have been nice, Leah looks like she has either been enjoying some chocolate or is covered in mud. The Gruffalo trial sounds like fun too, although are Gruffalos friendly by nature?
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Thank you Debbie, it is a wonderful place. Lia is covered in mud from the bike trailer!
Nat.x
That’s a really useful post Nat 🙂 When we camped in Scotland years ago we found that the midges really loved Matt, so I suggest taking him with you on camping trips to act as a lure, leaving everyone else free to enjoy the evening air! Perhaps being born in Fort William gave me ancestral immunity to the little devils, but I didn’t have a lump on me while poor Matt was covered.
Thank you Maz. Sadly the midges love me too!
Nat.x
I have always fancied visiting Kielder Forest and the surrounding area, and I didn’t realise it was so close to the border with Scotland. Not sure whether my teen and tween would cope with intermittent wifi though, but otherwise sounds a beautiful place x
Haha yes I can imagine it would be a matter for some debate for tweens and teens!
Nat.x
Wow, I didn’t realise there was so much to do around Kielder! We’ve been to Traquair before and had fun getting lost in the maze, not been in ages though. It’s also not that far from my in-laws! Why is it that wellies seem to get holes in them so easily?! That was my downfall camping too, should have brought 2 sets each for the kids as they would inevitably go too deep in the water and would go inside their wellies, a day to dry them out would be good. 🙂
Traquair is lovely isn’t it? You’d love Kielder, definitely worth a visit!
Nat.x
You’re photos are amazing! I live so close to Kielder but have not visited since I was a child! I really must revisit soon x
Aww thank you! It is a lovely place.
Nat.x
It looks beautiful and I love that you are close to the Scottish border to pop over for a visit. I think a forced break from technology would do me good x
Yes, it definitely benefitted me to have a tech break!
Nat.x
Gorgeous photos! Lovely scenery, & I do love a castle or a manor house! I love stepping back in time.
Ahh me too, castles are so much fun!
Nat.x
Your comment about having no wi-fi made me smile. We’re just back from a visit to another Dark Sky Park – Galloway Forest, in south-west Scotland. No wi-fi there either, and I’m up against it, having to catch up with tons of stuff! Amazing experience, though. I love the fact that you can visit places this remote in the UK.
Yes, it is hard work when you get back! Sounds like you had a great time though.
Nat.x
Oh Nat, it sounds like you still managed to have a wonderful time, despite the tent flooding, midges and unplanned rainy day activities! It must have been a bit hard to plan without wifi too! #familytraveltips
Thank you, we had a fab time and the lack of WiFi was as wonderful as it was frustrating!
Nat.x
Looks gorgeous – despite the setbacks! #familytraveltips
Thank you, it is a really beautiful place and we did have a good time despite it all!
Nat.x
The Gruffalo Trail and the observatory are things my little one would love. Beautiful part of the country.
Excited to read that you have chosen my interview with Emmie and Evie as your favourite post! Thanks.#familytraveltips
Oh it really is a beautiful part of the country. And that interview of yours was incredible, I was so inspired!
Nat.x
I love it here, not been in years, but it is beautiful. What a great place to take the kids. Plus it’s closish to Scotland. Looks like your kids loved it and great tips to share xx #familytraveltips
Oh it really was the perfect place to take kids. Great for being outdoors and tech-free!
Nat.x
Looks stunning Nat 🙂 laughed at the plan for wet weather headed as generally don’t we just have to do that all the time now. Regards midgets, I always get bitten alive unless I have some Avon skin soft on me, it’s the only thing I found that works but guess if you had to unpack it first that wouldn’t of helped anyway. Looks like you all enjoyed it despite the rain and bugs 🙂
You’re so right, oh my goodness what a rotten summer we’ve had! Great advice on the midges, the deet works perfectly though, we just need to remember to pack it somewhere more accessible!
Nat.x
This is such a great post Nat – really useful (and honest!) we were worried about the midges too when we headed to Scotland but as it was May half term I don’t think they were too bad! It’s lovely to visit somewhere with no signal too- great to have a forced digital detox! The place looks wonderful and peaceful , and there seems so much to do. Thanks for sharing #famtravtip
May half term is a great time to visit Scotland, we had perfect weather and no midges when we went then!
Nat.x
Useful tips for these types of holidays not just resort
Thank you, it’s great to do something a bit more spontaneous than a resort holiday.
Nat.x
This looks like a stunning part of the world, I’d not heard of it before. I quite like the idea of the dark nights and no wifi – sounds like an adventure! Also not keen on the midges though – I always get feasted on my insects! #familytraveltips
Haha they always eat me alive too, flipping things! Love Kielder Forest though, it’s a lovely place to be.
Nat.x
Ah I hate midges and can’t help but scratch afterwards! Thank you for all the tips on visiting this area. #familytraveltips
Haha I scratch just at the thought of them!
Nat.x
Haha it really was worth it, we had a brilliant week thank you.
Nat.x